I tend to see quite a bit of excitement around performance clutches. Indeed there are many options out there to choose from: Valeo, Sachs, Clutchmasters, Tilton.. just to name a few brands. Each brand even has multiple clutch types: organic, sintered metallic, carbon, single disk, multiple disk.. the combinations can be staggering. So which one is right for you? If you cut through all the hype and confusion, the answer is usually that you should simply stick with a stock clutch!
How I can make this claim? Well first of all, I am not in the business of selling clutches! Second, just think about what a clutch does: a clutch is a switch for torque. Turn it on and apply torque to the wheels, turn it off no more power is transmitted.
Similar to the amperage ratings for electrical switches, clutches have ratings for switching torque. Some aftermarket companies can give you these numbers but they are impossible to come by for a stock clutch. Not having the numbers makes it difficult to compare your choices to eachother. On top of that, how much torque is your engine producing anyway? How much does your new clutch need to handle? I’ll try shed some light on this with some numbers for Fiats from my own experience:
Stock 2 liter Valeo clutch:
+ Organic single disk
+ Cast steel pressure plate
+ Stamped steel housing
+ Measured torque rating: ~180ft-lbs
Stock 2 liter engine:
+ Fiat torque rating: ~110ft-lbs at crank
Worked 2 liter:
+ Torque: ~145ft-lbs at crank
All-Out 2 liter engine:
+ Torque: ~170ft-lbs at crank
***It is important to note that a clutch’s rating should be specified in units of torque (lb-ft or N-m) and not units of power (hp, bhp etc..) That is always the first clue, if a clutch is rated at a given horsepower, it is being hyped, and it is quite possible the the seller knows nothing about their product.
Referencing the above numbers, it is only in the most extreme cases that a clutch upgrade is deemed necessary to switch the required torque. So if your clutch is not slipping, or just falling apart, why go with anything other than stock? The best part is that it is about $120 and you know stock parts will fit perfectly without extra modification!
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I race circle track and only need a clutch to get the car going and get to third gear. Then when the race starts I just stay in third. I adjust rear end gearing to stay in the 5000 to 7500 rpm range.
I always suspected I could probably get by fine with a stock clutch but do want a light flywheel.
I am racing an 84 celica with a 22r soon to be changed to a 98 tacoma 2.4 engine, a 2RZ with about 150 hp in stock form. Built out it should have 200 to 250 hp max. Going to be running one of your edis setups.