Power Draw from Engine Accessories

Here’s a little write up a did a while back regarding the amount of power used by accessory items. It helps to explain the apparent power saving of using electric accessories  and/or underdrive pulleys.

    • Alternator HP Draw
      There are a few things going on here: 1. charging draw, 2. draw to spin the alternator guts (no charging)

      Charging draw: At its very basis, it takes shaft power for the alternator to generate electricity. At full draw, you could potentially pull 65a x 14.5v = 1.27hp. That assumes the alternator operates at 100% efficiency. In reality, an alternator’s efficiency is about 50% depending on many factors, mainly rpm and operating temperature, so lets just say from charging you’re pulling 2.52hp.

      **
      To do this, remember, you have to pull a full 65a, most of the time though, you’re probably not consuming that much power.

      Spinning the alternator: the interesting thing about the charging draw is that it is always quoted in a steady state. In a race situation, nothing is in a steady state. The engine is constantly accelerating up and down the rpm range. Just like a flywheel, the alternator takes horsepower to accelerate. An OE Fiat alternator is run about 2 x crank speed, so say that in 2 seconds you accelerate from 3500 to 7500rpm, you have to spin up the alternator 8000rpm. With some assumptions on the alternator’s moment of inertia, we can calculate this to take 4.13hp. This is assuming the belt transmits power at 100% efficiently.

      Another note on alternators, most are rated at a certain %duty cycle. They will perform with a higher instantaneous output than what they are rated at, so while a 95a alternator will put out 120a for say, 30 seconds, as heat builds their efficiency drops and they will reach a more steady state output around their rated output, in this example, 95a.

 

  • Water Pump HP Draw
    A subject I don’t know as much about, it seems very complicated as you have varying pressures depending on open or closed thermostat, pumping efficiency at various rpm, etc. My guess would be about 2hp to pump and negligible to spin up because of its very low MOI. Of course the advantage of an electric pump is it operates at a constant rpm, where it is most efficient, with the added plus of cooling or warming the engine while the engine is not running.

Another interesting point, a 9.5mm (3/8″) V belt has a limited power handling ability, roughly 5.5hp. It is not uncommon to exceed the belt’s capacity, this means slip, heat, degraded belt performance, and eventually failure. This is why you won’t see an alternator rated over about 110a without a double-v or serpentine (poly-v) belt on an OE application.

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What is MegaJolt?

MegaJolt Ignition Controller

MegaJolt.   Mega.  Jolt.  –That’s a funny name. Where does a name like MegaJolt come from? What is MegaJolt? What can MegaJolt do for me? Well, sit down, have a read, and I’ll tell you.

    • First, a bit of history
      In the late 80′s, car manufacturers started to take a serious look into the inefficiencies created by mechanical distributors. Even the best units, when tested, will show +/- 2 degrees of ignition timing. The cause of this error is due to the inherent backlash and wear of mechanical components. This wasn’t the only problem though. Manufacturers noticed poor combustion at idle and started using vacuum diaphragms to further adjust timing. These systems worked well until again, being mechanical, would wear and fail.

      Their solution, was an electronic revolution!

 

    • Distributorless Ignition
      An electronic distributorless ignition system (EDIS), is an ignition system without a mechanical distributor. Instead, they have multiple coils connected directly to each spark plug. A computer determines where the engine is in it’s cycle, and when to fire each coil. Is MegaJolt that computer? Well.. kinda.

      Though there are many different distributorless ignitions, the Ford EDIS proved to be a tinkerer’s dream. Its advantage is that its electronics were separated into different components, a high power relay to fire coils, and the engine’s computer (ECU) to control advance. One could even unplug the ECU and the ignition system would still run (albeit at a static 10 degrees of advance). This got people thinking.. What if we unplugged the ECU and put something else in its place? That something else became MegaJolt!

 

    • What is MegaJolt?
      MegaJolt is an ignition advance controller. Sounds complicated though it really isn’t. An ignition advance controller is a device to control an engine’s ignition timing. In older cars a controller is as simple as weights and springs in a distributor. As the engine spins, the weights allow the ignition timing to advance in proportion to the engine’s RPM. To tune the advance, one could simply change the springs holding the weights and this would change how much advance the distributor would produce.

 

    • If MegaJolt is just a box of weights and springs, what do I need it for?
      In newer cars, the ECU acts as an advance controller and to tune an ECU you need special tools. To tune MegaJolt, however, all you need is a computer (or even just a smartphone!) To put it simply, MegaJolt allows you to tune the ignition timing of a Ford EDIS without special tools.

 

    • So, that’s it?
      Hardly! That’s only the tip of the iceberg. Since its inception, the MegaJolt project has grown immensely. Many features were added over the years, turning MegaJolt from just an advance controller to much more:

      It can be a rev limiter.
      It can correct for air temperature.
      It can be a pressure switch.
      It can be a data logger.

      The list goes on. In a way that is almost where MegaJolt goes wrong. Too many features. It is important to remember, feature-rich as it may be, that these features are only extras, and are not required. It can be as basic or as complicated as system as you want. Either way, it is the best standalone ignition advance controller out there.

If you’d like to know more, follow these links to the other posts in our series on MegaJolt:

 

Oh yeah.. how did it get its name? Originally there was MegaSquirt, another project for DIY fuel injection. MegaJolt was a side project for DIY spark control. If fuel injectors give you a ‘squirt,’ its only natural that ignition gives you a ‘jolt.’ :)

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Resale Value?

In case you had wondered about resale value of our parts, check out one of our aluminum flywheels that sold on eBay last night. Interesting given you can buy one of our Fiat Aluminum Flywheels direct from us for nearly the same price.

Aluminum Flywheel Resale Value

Aluminum Flywheel Resale Value

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Trigger Wheel Failure part 2

It turns out even OEM setups can fail. This one came from my ’91 (e34) BMW M5. On this particular engine, the trigger wheel is attached to the crank pulley via a rubber mount. The trigger wheel acts in conjunction with the hub as a harmonic balancer. After almost 200,000 miles, the rubber has given up. Luckily, I was able to replace the part before it separated completely. While I took its portrait it fell apart in my hands!

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History of Abarth

Check out this great series on the history of Abarth, perhaps the prequil to the history of Miller’s Mule?

 

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Fiat SOHC Cam Pulley Clearancing

As rear-guard cores for adjustable cam pulleys have become harder and harder to source, we developed the option of modifying front-guard pulleys into rear-guard. Unfortunately though, there is a slight clearance issue with the pulley and the cam box. Below are the necessary steps to relieve the interference.

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HTD Drive System Preview

Here’s a little preview of one of the projects we’re working on.

Fiat HTD Belt Drive System

Fiat HTD Belt Drive System

This is a complete belt drive replacement utilizing 8mm HTD belts instead of v-belts. The load to spin up the alternator alone (not even charging) will exceed the power handling of a conventional 9.5mm v-belt. Overloading the belt can cause all manor of problems, specifically throwing/chunking the belt! Thus it is necessary given the acceleration of the engine and the load carried by the crank, alternator, water pump circuit, to make some changes…

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Installation Guides

Did you know that most of our parts have installation guides? These guides provide all the information you need to install our parts on your car! They are included with parts as we ship them but you can also download them from the site:

 

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Trigger Wheel Failure

The carnage

My fellow enthusiasts,

it is with a great deal of grief I present to you an issue with one of our products. A client has reported a failure of his crank pulley, citing that the screws used to fasten his trigger wheel have loosened and subsequently backed out. Thus the trigger wheel was free to flail about and do some damage to surrounding components.

It should be noted that we have made dozens of these crank pulleys, with this being an isolated incident. Even an isolated incident though,  is unacceptable and thus we are replacing the damaged components free of charge.

The client purchased the part in 2009. I believe, however, we have already remedied this problem.  In early 2010, I spent a good deal of time researching and testing fasteners. This research was immediately put to use to improve our products. Since then we have used Loctite 246 when affixing trigger wheels, taking care of any loosening due to vibration. We are also very careful about torquing the fasteners during assembly. For further reassurance, fasteners are marked after they are torqued, that way we know we don’t miss one during assembly.

I take any issue with our products very seriously. They have my name on them and they darn well better be perfect. That being said, mistakes happen and we do what we can to make things perfect again. I want to report this problem and hope that you will help notify anyone who has one of our crank pulleys with trigger wheels. I urge you to check the fasteners, and implement the procedures I have outlined above.

Please see this crank pulley installation guide for more detail. Though our current design uses M5 fasteners, in the past we also M6 fasteners. The installation guide is for our latest design, specifying M5 screws to be torqued to 50in-lbs, for M6 fasteners, torque to 70in-lbs.

-Jason Miller

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Teaser of last Thursday at Houston MSR

Last Thursday we were invited to come out to Texas Motor Event‘s track day at Houston MSR. Luckily, it rained for the first hour or so, which, in the Integrale is simply brilliant! Somehow the car ended up as the cover shot for the video teaser..

A big thanks to Shedrick Mask for the video!

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