An airbox can make or break an engine. A proper airbox has to do a couple of things 1) provide cold air to the engine, 2) provide clean air to the engine, 3) provide enough air to the engine. It may seem simple, but it is actually a bit of a challenge, especially while trying to fit an airbox in a constrained engine compartment. Browse through the photos below to see how this project started to take shape! (Clicking the photos will provide more detail)
The first problem to tackle was to define the hard constraints such as the firewall, hood, carbs and overall engine compartment. I machined up the baseplate shown below as a reference plane.
Once I had a plane of reference, I used expanding foam packing material to measure the clearances.
Here you can see the impressions in the foam.
Once I knew how much room I had to work with, I began to shape the foam form. I had to figure out the best shape for proper airflow, while also allowing access to the Webers for tuning. What good is an airbox if you can’t adjust your idle!
The form further developed, and I decided to place the inlet high in the engine compartment. This allowed for smooth flow from the inlet to the base plate, no bumps, no restrictions, no turbulence!
This is the final form the airbox took. The more I cut away, the more fragile it became, so I used masking tape and wooden dowels to hold it together.
The other part of the project was the filterbox. I wanted to keep the filter as far away from the carbs as possible, reason being, is that filters create a large amount of turbulence which is exactly what we are trying to prevent. This is yet another reason why those mesh screens on air horns are about the worse thing you can do to a Weber carb!
Like the airbox, I had planned to build the filterbox from scratch. This turned out, however, to be very difficult. I decided to start with a BMW 850i filterbox instead. These are very well built, and filters are easily available. I would retain the lid and latching mechanisms but reshape the rest.
Simple, everyday cardboard was used to fill in the holes in the box, and shape it to something more useful.
The joints were sealed up with Bondo and sanded smooth.
The final step in forming the filterbox was to add the snorkel to draw air from the front of the car. The theory being that as the car moves along, the pressure at the front of the car increases with speed. If we’re lucky, we might even get a bit of a ram air effect and push 1-2% more air into the engine and push 1-2% more power out!
Stay tuned for part 2, fiberglass!






















